Barry MacAffer - Quick fire questions

Barry MacAffer is a notable figure in the whisky industry, particularly known for his time at the Laphroaig Distillery on the Isle of Islay, Scotland.  A native of Islay, Barry joined Laphroaig in 2011, starting as a contract worker in the warehouse.  Over the years, he climbed the ranks, becoming the distillery's general manager in 2021.  His dedication to maintaining Laphroaig's quality and fostering community connections made him a respected leader.

In 2024, Barry embarked on a new journey, leaving Laphroaig to work with BrewGuru, a South Korean company.  He now focuses on creating Korean single malt whisky, aiming to bring this emerging category to a global audience.  His career reflects a blend of tradition, innovation, and a passion for whisky-making.

I had the pleasure of meeting Barry in a Boston Irish bar for one of his visits, last minute emails were sent out, and I was the only person who ventured out and had some one-on-one quality time, during which he agreed to answer some quick-fire questions.

1. How did you start in the whisky industry, and how have you seen it change?

My whisky journey began rather unexpectedly, I started at Laphroaig in 2011 to save some money so I could afford to build a dental lab, after 3 months or so I totally forgot about the dental lab, I was hooked and was fascinated by an industry that was in my backyard, but yet I never foreseen I would work in it growing up.

I believe the most significant difference I have experienced since then is the diversity, and I don’t just mean in terms of the people working there or drinking it; it applies to all aspects of the industry.

·       The people making it, when I started it, were a male-dominated workspace, which has changed a lot in only 14 years.

·       The audience it's reaching, is a more diverse crowd visiting the distilleries and a more varied audience attending tastings or masterclasses.

·       Types of casks used and experimental finishes, I think there is a more diverse range of casks being used in today's market.

·       More diverse ways of drinking whisky, whisky cocktails or highballs etc.

So, to sum up, I guess diversity across the entire industry is the biggest change I've seen. I also think the internet and social media have democratised whisky, allowing enthusiasts from every corner of the planet to share their passion. It's a wonderful, chaotic evolution.

2. What's the biggest misconception about your job?

When I was at Laphroaig, people thought that I would spend my days sipping rare malts and waxing poetic about peat smoke. There's undoubtedly some of that, very little, but mostly it's spreadsheets, regulatory hurdles and hours of Zoom calls. It’s also Another
significant change that has occurred; the role of the distillery manager has undergone substantial changes from what it used to be. Especially in the last few years, I felt like I was spending more time talking about legionella than I was about whisky, so I knew it was time to move on. I wanted to find a role that got me back to what I loved doing, and that’s ultimately making whisky, studying whisky, and exploring what boundaries can be pushed by experimenting with it. I spent 7 years at Laphroaig doing compliance work, and I felt that every year I was there, I was moving further and further away from the actual whisky-making process. Still, I accept that everything has to evolve, including job roles, so I had to move on to get back to doing what I love.

3. What is something about your time at Laphroaig that you're particularly proud of?

I'm proud of how we maintained the integrity of Laphroaig's character and increased floor maltings for more control over the flavour profile. Honouring its floor malting tradition while innovating at the same time, in my final full year at Laphroaig, we managed to increase our warehouse team from two people to eight and kept most of our filled casks on Islay. We increased production on the malt floors by 50%. We increased that team from four to six people. I really liked how the elements series worked out, and creating the first aged Cairdeas for a while was fun.

Overall, my proudest achievement was becoming the assistant manager. I threw myself into that role in 2015, and it was really tough. I transitioned from being an operator in the distillery to managing 19 people, most of whom had decades of experience. However, the team was fantastic and always supported me, which allowed me to grow and take on the manager's role much easier.

4. How did you source your ingredients; were they all local to Islay or further afield?

That would be nice, unfortunately, the volume of malt and barley we needed had to come from all around the UK. Islay’s farms are just not big enough to sustain Laphroaig's operations.

5. What are the biggest trends in the spirits industry right now?

Sustainability is huge, and rightly so. Consumers want to know their dram isn't costing the planet. We're also seeing a surge in experimental finishes – whether it be tequila casks, sake casks, you name it.  I think non-alcoholic drinks are making a major impact now, and I would say that brands are becoming less transparent, and consumers are noticing this. I don’t know why they would want to go down this route, as I think transparency is massive and crucial for the consumer. People just want to know the casks used, maturation length, etc.

And of course, the rise of “premiumisation” continues!

6. How is the spirits market expected to grow in the next few years?

I think it will decline before it grows again, unfortunately. With rising production costs, looming tariff wars, and an already saturated market, it will be very difficult for whisky to grow in the next few years.  Emerging markets will play a key role in driving growth. I think we may expect more digital engagement, including virtual tastings and immersive experiences, to help regain growth. The rise of conscious consumption and Scottish sustainability objectives will drive demand for more sustainable practices.

We might start to see more personalised experiences. People want their whisky tailored to their tastes, whether it's a bespoke cask finish or a classic flavour, so hopefully, we see a rise in cask sales from distilleries and unique experiences again as brands try to grow and build up their followers.

 7. What are the biggest challenges facing the spirits industry today?

Regulatory changes and tariffs! I think everyone is anxious about the dreaded 'T' word that’s looming over the world right now. I also think that brands must keep up with evolving consumer tastes while staying true to tradition, which is a constant balancing act. Oh, and explaining to people that 'whisky investment' isn't a guaranteed get-rich-quick scheme. There has been a significant media focus in the UK recently on whisky cask investment scams.

 8. What are some of the opportunities for growth in the spirits industry, for someone maybe looking to start a new career or simply a change?

The industry is ripe for innovation. Digital marketing, content creation, and brand storytelling are crucial. There is a growing demand for sustainability experts, distillers with a scientific background, and individuals who can create immersive and engaging experiences.

One of the reasons I left Laphroaig and moved to Seoul was that I believed Korea offered me an opportunity for growth. I wanted to move somewhere where I could make a difference, and with Korean TV, food, pop stars, and K-drinks all starting to trend around the world, I don’t see why K-whisky can't be the next trend. Additionally, creating a whisky from scratch was the challenge I had always wanted.

 9. How is the spirits industry responding to the growing popularity of non-alcoholic drinks?

With a mix of curiosity and a bit of 'if you can't beat 'em, join 'em.' Many brands are exploring non-alcoholic alternatives. They're realising that 'non-alcoholic' doesn't mean 'boring.' It's about offering inclusive options for those who want to enjoy the social aspect of drinking without the alcohol. I think it’s safe to say we can expect more innovation in this space!

 10. Exciting times for you as you move to South Korea to start a new chapter in your life, but apart from language, what do you foresee as the major obstacles within the Korean spirits business?

Beyond the language, I foresee a few delightful challenges. Firstly, introducing the nuances of Scotch whisky to a market with a strong tradition in soju and makgeolli will undoubtedly require patience. Secondly, building trust and authenticity in a market where trends can shift rapidly, things in Korea happen so quickly, and whisky is the opposite - it's something that takes time. Therefore, whisky-making somewhat goes against the grain here (no pun intended). The tax laws in Korea also pose a significant challenge to making K-Whisky affordable for everyone; I don’t see that changing anytime soon, so it makes our challenge even bigger before we begin. However, I'm genuinely enjoying the adventure so far, I can't wait to see a Korean Single Malt on a Boston bar gantry someday!